The study is devoted to the formulation and investigation of emulsion cosmetic products [1]. The type of emulsifier and the chosen method of preparing the oil-in-water emulsion [2, 3] are decisive for the consistency, homogeneity, and appearance of the cosmetic system. They largely influence the texture, stability, and sensorial properties of the finished product.
One cosmetic product was manufactured by a cold-emulsification method [3], without heating. This became possible thanks to the incorporation into the formulation of oils, hydrogenated shea oil, sweet-almond oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, that do not require melting [4], together with cold-process emulsifiers marketed under the trade name Aculyn 2051, INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone.
The second cosmetic product was produced by the traditional hot-emulsification technology [3]. Its formulation employed Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) and Glyceryl Stearate, both of which are direct oil-in-water emulsifiers.
Both cosmetic products were preserved with Nipaguard PE 9010, an effective combination of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin. It provides broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection and product stability and is suitable for use in emulsion systems.
Nipaguard PE 9010 is permitted in natural and organic formulations because it contains neither parabens nor formaldehyde. This preservative exhibits high stability over a wide pH range and is suitable for preparing emulsion cosmetic systems without heating.
It was established that the cold-emulsification technology is highly efficient. It enabled the production of a stable composition with pleasant tactile properties without the need for heating, which is particularly important when thermolabile active ingredients are used [5]. Hot emulsification proved less effective in ensuring long-term stability, especially under storage conditions and mechanical stress on the cosmetic system [1, 6].
The study demonstrated the effectiveness of ultrasonic treatment [3] as an alternative method for high-speed mixing of the obtained emulsion systems. Ultrasonic processing significantly improves the homogeneity and stability of cosmetic products.
The obtained results confirm the importance of a rational choice of technological approach for obtaining modern emulsion cosmetic products with improved characteristics.
Bibliography:
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6. Пилипенко Т.М., Єфімова В.Г., Хрокало Л.А., Воробйова В.І. Хімічні методи аналізу харчових добавок та косметичних засобів: Лабораторний практикум: навч. посібник для здобувачів ступеня бакалавра за освітньою програмою «Хімічні технології косметичних засобів та харчових добавок» спеціальності 161 Хімічні технології та інженерія. Київ: КПІ ім. Ігоря Сікорського, 2022. 72 с.
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